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 A
driving tour of western Massachusetts reveals rich slices of
history, eye-popping fall foliage and numerous modern
delights.
Tucked away in the western hills of Massachusetts,
a narrow hiking trail slithers its way through a glorious old-growth
forest of hemlock and oak. Originally established hundreds of years
ago, the Mahican-Mohawk Trail recalls a time long before the
Pilgrims ever laid eyes on Plymouth Rock. Walking this trail is to
follow in the footsteps of generations of American Indians. Today,
the trail reigns as the signature hiking path in Mohawk Trail State
Forest, one of the many delights to be found along the Mohawk Trail.
A 63-mile section of Route 2 in western Massachusetts, the
Mohawk Trail closely follows a once-heavily trodden Indian footpath
that connected tribes in the Hudson River Valley with those along
the Deerfield and Connecticut Rivers. As European settlers ventured
farther into present-day New England and New York, they made use of
this strategic Indian path, widening it to accommodate horse travel.
By the early 1900s, as automobiles became more common, the
trail was graded and paved, including the steepest section over the
Hoosac Range. The auto route officially opened in 1914, making it
one of the first scenic highways in the country. Boasting
inspirational overlooks (particularly arresting in fall), evocative
reminders of our nation’s history and plenty of outdoor adventure,
the road continues to draw intrepid travelers.
Something
Old and Something New
A great place to begin is in
Williamstown, Mass. Located on the western end of the drive, this
tranquil town is dominated by the well-manicured lawns and imposing
facades of Williams College. Founded in 1793, the college boasts
striking architecture, a lively summer theater and an impressive art
collection. The Williams College Museum of Art houses more than
13,000 pieces ranging from early Egyptian artifacts to modern
classics. However, the museum’s most prized possessions are neither
painting nor pottery. Displayed beautifully in one of its galleries
are first printings of our country’s most significant founding
documents such as the Declaration of Independence and the Bill of
Rights. These treasured parchments from our nation’s earliest, most
uncertain days elicit as much awe and inspiration as the grandest
watercolor.
Wonders from the past, however, are often best
appreciated when juxtaposed with wonders from the present. Traveling
east from Williamstown, the Mohawk Trail passes through the gritty
town of North Adams, home to the Massachusetts Museum of
Contemporary Art. Located on a 13-acre complex, once the site of an
old mill, Mass MoCA provides contemporary artists an opportunity to
create and display large works that conventional museums could not
accommodate. An example of this is the recent addition of a major
exhibit featuring the work of American artist Sol LeWitt. Credited
by many with founding various artistic movements, LeWitt was well
known for his wall drawings. More than 100 of the oversized drawings
are now on display in a new 27,000-square-foot space at the museum.
They are mesmerizing not just because of their impressive scope, but
for their geometric patterns and provocative colors.
Nearby,
Western Gateway Heritage State Park’s main attraction is a museum
featuring informative exhibits detailing the town’s industrial
heritage, including the construction of the Hoosac Tunnel, nicknamed
The Great Bore. Considered an engineering feat of its day, the
five-mile tunnel cuts through Hoosac Mountain and took 25 years to
complete, opening in 1876. It served as a testing ground for a
recently discovered explosive: nitroglycerin.
Fall’s
Fabulous Fashion Show
Fortunately, for travelers who
appreciate stunning views of rolling forest, the Mohawk Trail does
not go through the mountain, but rather snakes its way up and over
it. When the road first opened, this section provided a rush of
exhilaration for drivers—and it still does. The steep climb up to
the western summit requires keen attention by the driver—especially
at the Hairpin Turn—but rewards passengers with sweeping vistas of
the surrounding valleys and hillsides.
Glorious at any time
of year, the Mohawk Trail region in fall becomes a cornucopia of
color that renders the spectator speechless. From vantage points
such as the Whitcomb Summit, the highest point on the trail at 2,173
feet, the seemingly endless blanket of hardwoods explodes into
vibrant ambers, blazing oranges and intense reds.
For those
in search of a more intimate natural experience, the trail passes a
number of state forests, offering ample opportunity for a walk in
the woods. At the aforementioned Mohawk Trail State Forest, hikers
can follow the historical Mahican-Mohawk Trail as it runs along the
Deerfield River and reflect upon all the American Indians, European
settlers and Revolutionary War soldiers—including a still-patriotic
Benedict Arnold, who tramped through these very woods as he made his
way to Fort Ticonderoga.
Bridges and Colonial
Villages
The Mohawk Trail is blessed with numerous, idyllic
waterways. It was in large part because of strategic fishing spots
on these waterways that tribes such as the Mohawk and Pocumtuck
established the foot path in the first place. And where there are
rivers and roads, there are bridges.
Perhaps the most
unusual, and certainly the most redolent, is the Bridge of Flowers
in the drowsy hamlet of Shelburne Falls. In the 1920s, when the
town’s arched trolley bridge fell into disrepair, scarring the
landscape, its future looked uncertain. Then a local women’s group
sprung into action planting trees, flowers and shrubs to transform
the bridge into a captivating garden. Today, from spring through
fall, visitors can traverse the 400-foot bridge to stop and smell
the roses, the tulips or any other flower they choose.
West
of Shelburne Falls, a few miles south of the trail, sits a veritable
time machine known as Historic Deerfield. In the 17th century, the
tiny settlement of Deerfield represented the frontier of England’s
fledgling colony. Its remote location left it vulnerable to attacks
by Indians and the French, who were constantly challenging England’s
dominance in the region.
On a chilly February morning in
1704, the most well known of these attacks took place. During the
Raid on Deerfield, some 300 French soldiers and Indian warriors
trudged through knee-deep snow toward the unsuspecting village. When
the raid was over, dozens of Deerfield residents lay dead and more
than a 100 were taken prisoner.
Turning down “the street,”
as the main thoroughfare in Historic Deerfield is called, it’s hard
to imagine voices being raised, never mind firearms. Serenity floats
on the breeze. The village, composed of 11 houses, is from a
different era. Visitors can take tours of rustic, Colonial-period
homes where a bed was an extravagance, and admire the furnishings of
a middle-class household during the Federal period.
From
pre-Colonial villages to picturesque college towns, a journey along
the Mohawk Trail excites the senses and challenges the
mind.
Planning Your Trip
To find out more about the
Mohawk Trail, visit www.mohawktrail.com. For vacation-planning
assistance, contact your AAA Travel agent or visit AAA.com/travel.
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